Spanish history

This tag is associated with 27 posts

Abandoned Tablate village – and Puente Nazari

We pulled off the motorway to Granada, stepped out of the car and were ankle deep in a sea of yellow oxalis. Spring’s unusual weather continued as splats of rain reminded us that summer hadn’t quite yet arrived. Dwarfed by dead palm trees we walked up a short incline. We were at Tablate in the municipality of … Continue reading

La Rheúma – Hotel Bosques de la Alhambra, Granada

‘Would that be a double room with dripping walls and a sinister atmosphere, madam?’ Very few people visiting Granada get to miss this building, mainly because it sits beneath the Alhambra by the Rio Darro – a popular place to stroll along before perhaps heading up the steep, narrow streets of the Albaicin.  It doesn’t seem to … Continue reading

My sherry amour – Pathé film (1964)

Filmed in 1964 – when seven out of ten bottles of sherry were exported to Britain – this short film contains all colours of the rainbow in the women’s fiesta dresses – with ink-black bulls for contrast. We love these old Pathé films and wonder if anything has much changed in Spain. The loud and … Continue reading

El hospital de San Juan de Dios – Granada

Last week in Granada we spent the morning being kids again. With a lemon Tango in hand we sneaked into el hospital de San Juan de Dios to look around this magnificent, but sadly decrepit, building in the backstreets of the city. Like, say, the botanical gardens in Valencia, stepping away from the rumble of traffic and … Continue reading

Cross words in Órgiva

An idea to remove the five metre high cross in Órgiva’s Plaza de la Alpujarra has gathered pace. Erected in the late 1950s and known as `The Cross of the Fallen’ it commemorates victims of the Spanish Civil War – but those who were on Franco’s side. At a recent town hall meeting a majority of councillors … Continue reading

Manuel de Falla – his house in Granada

This blog’s ‘Then and Now‘ series demonstrates our enduring interest in places captured in time and their modern-day portrait; and so it continues as we stood outside the Granada home of Spanish composer, Manuel de Falla, born in Cádiz in 1876 (for a brief intro to his life, see bottom). The distant hum of traffic … Continue reading

Goodbye Campers! – Órgiva landmark bites the dust

This post may be of interest to those who know this area well, in particular, locals who knew ‘Upper Camping’ – officially Camping Puerta de la Alpujarra. As of today it has, literally, bitten the dust and looks like a modern day Pompeii. It’s a sad sight and (was) a landmark – its red pyramid-like towers … Continue reading

Museo Casa Alpujarreña – Bubión, La Alpujarra

If you visit La Alpujarra, you’d be foolish to ignore the fantastic Museo Casa Alpujarreña, next to Bubión’s church. It’s a typical house of this area, barely altered since its previous – and final – occupier lived here. A time-capsule of a former home, it’s as if someone entered one day and asked for the … Continue reading

Searching for Granada’s past

It’s noticeably busier in Granada this week. The streets will progressively fill over the coming months until August, when the heat gets too much and people head out to cooler places. It’s already mighty hot; Spain’s first proper heat of the year has swept across Andalucía. Weather maps have turned from orange to red, and now … Continue reading

Gerald Brenan: a return to Yegen (1974 documentary)

In an early trip to this area (around 2013), we headed to Yegen; a village in La Alpujarra made famous by British writer, Gerald Brenan. His famous book – South from Granada – painted a picture of his five years there, from 1919. Tormented by the harsh Andalusian sun for much of the year but … Continue reading

Fundación Rodríguez-Acosta – Granada

We’ve been meaning to go here for ages. The first time we searched for this place we ended up a kilometre away staring at a sex-shop window. Resisting the urge to enter, we pledged to find one of Granada’s less-visited attractions another day. Tucked behind the sky-high trees on Calle de Antequeruela Alta, one of the … Continue reading

Alhambra documentaries

A friend who is visiting us soon asked about the Alhambra in Granada; whether there were any documentaries about it and the best books. The official guide to the Alhambra is a good start but fairly basic as one would expect. One book to look out for, we’ve been told, is ‘Reading the Alhambra’ by José Miguel … Continue reading

A special shop and an old tile

We’ve discovered a shop in Granada called Tauriq. It’s near the cathedral on Calle San Jerénimo and sells old stuff: tiles, ceramic bowls from cities such as Seville and Granada, marble slabs, clay vases which once stored olive oil or wine, clocks and more (a shop that has several clocks ticking simultaneously always has the … Continue reading

The cemetery above Órgiva

High above Órgiva a pine-clad hill is punctuated by a white, three-metre-high walled area: Órgiva’s cemetery. Today in the drizzle we headed up there for no reason other than to enjoy the amazing view of the Rio Guadalfeo valley and the Sierra de Lújar. A duvet of battleship-grey clouds slid eastwards across the mountains while the … Continue reading

A walk to Sacromonte, Granada

In brutal August heat with our backs as wet as newly-caught mackerel, we followed our noses to the area in Granada known as Sacromonte (‘sacred mount’). For every ten visitors to neighbouring Albaicín, one visits this area, it seemed to us anyway. High up, both have views that leave you – well – in awe of … Continue reading