Culture and buildings

This category contains 106 posts

Gerald Brenan: a return to Yegen (1974 documentary)

In an early trip to this area (around 2013), we headed to Yegen; a village in La Alpujarra made famous by British writer, Gerald Brenan. His famous book – South from Granada – painted a picture of his five years there, from 1919. Tormented by the harsh Andalusian sun for much of the year but … Continue reading

Fundación Rodríguez-Acosta – Granada

We’ve been meaning to go here for ages. The first time we searched for this place we ended up a kilometre away staring at a sex-shop window. Resisting the urge to enter, we pledged to find one of Granada’s less-visited attractions another day. Tucked behind the sky-high trees on Calle de Antequeruela Alta, one of the … Continue reading

Going Underground – Granada’s Metro ‘opens’

[Update: Metro now open. If you’re travelling by car from Órgiva to Granada and want to use the Metro, park at Shopping Sierra Nevada and hop on it from there.] [From 2016] We say ‘open’ but not in the sense you can travel on it. From its first planning stages in 2002, today, the steel shutters … Continue reading

The junk yard outside Granada

He wasn’t humming to himself or softly strumming his guitar, but Fernando – owner of a reclamation junk yard near Granada – can sure talk the hind legs off a donkey. There may even have been one tethered to his ramshackle ‘office’, complete with woodworking tools, varnishes and steel wool. A few elderly men whose … Continue reading

Alhambra documentaries

A friend who is visiting us soon asked about the Alhambra in Granada; whether there were any documentaries about it and the best books. The official guide to the Alhambra is a good start but fairly basic as one would expect. One book to look out for, we’ve been told, is ‘Reading the Alhambra’ by José Miguel … Continue reading

A special shop and an old tile

We’ve discovered a shop in Granada called Tauriq. It’s near the cathedral on Calle San Jerénimo and sells old stuff: tiles, ceramic bowls from cities such as Seville and Granada, marble slabs, clay vases which once stored olive oil or wine, clocks and more (a shop that has several clocks ticking simultaneously always has the … Continue reading

The cemetery above Órgiva

High above Órgiva a pine-clad hill is punctuated by a white, three-metre-high walled area: Órgiva’s cemetery. Today in the drizzle we headed up there for no reason other than to enjoy the amazing view of the Rio Guadalfeo valley and the Sierra de Lújar. A duvet of battleship-grey clouds slid eastwards across the mountains while the … Continue reading

Feria de Órgiva 2015

If you live in Órgiva you’ll know all about the feria, despite it being barely advertised for the benefit of visitors. It starts this Thursday 1 October and unofficially marks the end of summer and, as the sun is playing hide and seek between the odd raindrop, that seems apt. Note that shops and supermarkets are closed … Continue reading

A walk to Sacromonte, Granada

In brutal August heat with our backs as wet as newly-caught mackerel, we followed our noses to the area in Granada known as Sacromonte (‘sacred mount’). For every ten visitors to neighbouring Albaicín, one visits this area, it seemed to us anyway. High up, both have views that leave you – well – in awe of … Continue reading

Day of wine and roses

A snaking road just past Torvizcón takes you on a stunning journey up the Sierra de la Contraviesa. In 16km only two cars squeezed by us as we headed for Europe’s highest vineyard. At 1400m above sea level this was the first time in Spain we experienced absolute silence; no breeze, no dogs, no flies, … Continue reading

A mine of information in Órgiva

A while ago, small rock boulders suddenly appeared outside the building on Plaza Alpujarra that never opened and what people thought was the tourist office but it wasn´t (see this post). But it´s open and from mausoleum to one-room museum, Órgiva now celebrates the area´s history of mining on what is its own Uluru, the Sierra de Lújar. … Continue reading

Jardin Nazari – Vélez de Benaudalla

A small piece of the Generalife in the Alhambra was seemingly plucked from Granada and gently placed in this sleepy town, a short distance inland from the Costa Tropical. But the Jardin Nazari, tucked away in the backstreets of Vélez de Benaudalla, is no Johnny-come-lately – it´s been here, in one form or another, since … Continue reading

Granada ceramics

Corpus Christi dominates Granada at the moment; a seven day fiesta of processions, exhibitions, competitions and even puppet shows. Being campo-dwellers the celebrations took us a little by surprise as we left the underground car park into a camera flash of sunlight – and 30 degrees. The entire centre of the city had become a … Continue reading

San Marcos, Los Tablones

A moderate walk across the Rio Guadelfeo lies the village of Los Tablones and this coming weekend sees the fiesta of San Marcos. Unlike a traditional street party in the UK – 1977’s Royal Jubilee celebrations only lasted half a day for most people – Spain’s fiestas last days. Kicking off at 8pm tomorrow (Friday), … Continue reading

‘When the Moors ruled Europe’ documentary

Following our previous post about our trip to the Alhambra, here’s a very good documentary entitled ‘When the Moors ruled Europe‘ – presented by the historian and broadcaster, Bettany Hughes. We think it’s one of the better documentaries and films out there (and there are hundreds). It’s not just about Granada but takes a broader look … Continue reading