Culture and buildings

This category contains 101 posts

Órgiva, Lanjarón and the white villages – tourist film

Like the other tourism films on this blog, we didn’t lift a finger in producing it because, this time, we’ve been busy cleaning Saharan sand off every surface in sight. It came courtesy of last week’s rain which painted the Sierra Nevada orange like some awful 1970s dessert. The tango plume has gone and the … Continue reading

Órgiva Then and Now – #14

A walk into town passing pink almond petals floating in puddles, battered from branches by the rain. It’s dull and grey and there’s a trail of people heading slowly towards Órgiva’s church. The bell tolls; another funeral. The local rivers carry muddy rain water towards the Rio Guadelfeo. The shops and bars are all but … Continue reading

Manuel de Falla – his house in Granada

This blog’s ‘Then and Now‘ series demonstrates our enduring interest in places captured in time and their modern-day portrait; and so it continues as we stood outside the Granada home of Spanish composer, Manuel de Falla, born in Cádiz in 1876 (for a brief intro to his life, see bottom). The distant hum of traffic … Continue reading

Goodbye Campers! – Órgiva landmark bites the dust

This post may be of interest to those who know this area well, in particular, locals who knew ‘Upper Camping’ – officially Camping Puerta de la Alpujarra. As of today it has, literally, bitten the dust and looks like a modern day Pompeii. It’s a sad sight and (was) a landmark – its red pyramid-like towers … Continue reading

Órgiva Then and Now – #13

Recognise this? It’s Órgiva’s church – La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Expectation – before someone decided to rid its facade of charming trompe l’oeil detail and cover it up with the bland colour it is today. Maybe it’s had other designs since the cover-up – polka dots perhaps – but it’s sad it doesn’t look like this … Continue reading

Museo Casa Alpujarreña – Bubión, La Alpujarra

If you visit La Alpujarra, you’d be foolish to ignore the fantastic Museo Casa Alpujarreña, next to Bubión’s church. It’s a typical house of this area, barely altered since its previous – and final – occupier lived here. A time-capsule of a former home, it’s as if someone entered one day and asked for the … Continue reading

Infinite possibilities in Andalucía

If this previous promo film for Andalucia featured only beautiful people, this one – from Canal Sur Turismo – proves only white people live and visit the province. We really don’t need to do the tourist guys’ job for them, but it’s a nice snapshot of the area and includes snow on the Sierra Nevada, Ronda … Continue reading

You spin me right round – Discos Bora Bora, Granada

The great thing about not yet knowing a ‘new’ city is the stuff you stumble upon. So far we’ve chalked up a few smelly junk shops, the fabulous Tauriq – a preserving jar of Granada’s ceramics, bronze and old chestnut – and various restaurants that get you dribbling just at the thought of them. And sometimes … Continue reading

Searching for Granada’s past

It’s noticeably busier in Granada this week. The streets will progressively fill over the coming months until August, when the heat gets too much and people head out to cooler places. It’s already mighty hot; Spain’s first proper heat of the year has swept across Andalucía. Weather maps have turned from orange to red, and now … Continue reading

Gerald Brenan: a return to Yegen (1974 documentary)

In an early trip to this area (around 2013), we headed to Yegen; a village in La Alpujarra made famous by British writer, Gerald Brenan. His famous book – South from Granada – painted a picture of his five years there, from 1919. Tormented by the harsh Andalusian sun for much of the year but … Continue reading

Fundación Rodríguez-Acosta – Granada

We’ve been meaning to go here for ages. The first time we searched for this place we ended up a kilometre away staring at a sex-shop window. Resisting the urge to enter, we pledged to find one of Granada’s less-visited attractions another day. Tucked behind the sky-high trees on Calle de Antequeruela Alta, one of the … Continue reading

Going Underground – Granada’s Metro ‘opens’

We say ‘open’ but not in the sense you can travel on it. From its first planning stages in 2002, today, the steel shutters of Recogidas metro station – on one of central Granada’s main thoroughfares – were rolled up, the lights turned on and a steady procession of soon-to-be travellers and tourists descended into what, … Continue reading

The junk yard outside Granada

He wasn’t humming to himself or softly strumming his guitar, but Fernando – owner of a reclamation junk yard near Granada – can sure talk the hind legs off a donkey. There may even have been one tethered to his ramshackle ‘office’, complete with woodworking tools, varnishes and steel wool. A few elderly men whose … Continue reading

Alhambra documentaries

A friend who is visiting us soon asked about the Alhambra in Granada; whether there were any documentaries about it and the best books. The official guide to the Alhambra is a good start but fairly basic as one would expect. One book to look out for, we’ve been told, is ‘Reading the Alhambra’ by José Miguel … Continue reading

A special shop and an old tile

We’ve discovered a shop in Granada called Tauriq. It’s near the cathedral on Calle San Jerénimo and sells old stuff: tiles, ceramic bowls from cities such as Seville and Granada, marble slabs, clay vases which once stored olive oil or wine, clocks and more (a shop that has several clocks ticking simultaneously always has the … Continue reading