When in Granada, we often visit one of the best coffee/patisserie places in the city, Bernina 1930 S.L. on Calle Almireceros – as recommended in our Coffee guide – just down from Gran Vía. (If you receive this via email, please visit the website.)
Inside there’s a huge black and white photo on the wall, which we’ve always presumed was the facade of the place we were sitting in, enjoying a cortado. Even the staff thought it was; but it’s not.
Our growing knowledge of Granada – which is still tiny – helped us recognise the location of the coffee shop in the old photo. The building to the right is the ayuntamiento (town hall, 1858), on the site of the Convento del Carmen, built in the 17th century. The location gave itself away by the round windows and beautiful lamps, which are the same today.
Bernina has an interesting history: Rafael Fernández Juárez started a confectionery business in the 1920s, later launching La Pastelería Alhambra (Alhambra patisserie). After his death, his wife Encarnacíon, expanded the business, opening in Plaza del Carmen.
Both photos were taken on the edge of the plaza which has seen a lot in its time, from political events, demonstrations – and New Year’s Eve celebrations. If you visit the city you’re more than likely to find yourself here.
Today, lacking the proud ‘Bernina’ sign and with the sweet smell of chocolate and coffee long gone, the base of the four-storey building is now home to a jewellery shop… and the motorbikes still roar up and down Reyes Católicos.
Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose, eh?
© con jamón spain