We once calculated we’d spent 4.7 years of our lives in wine bars. We added an hour to the total in Granada at Casa de Vinos, a bar tucked away in the backstreets of this fabulous city – which isn’t a treat to visit as it costs just €5 each from Órgiva by bus.
We began the day by walking to the viewing point near the house of Manuel de Falla. We then descended among the seemingly mile-high trees and cooling water sprays to reach the gorgeous guitar workshops on a street near Plaza Nueva. One, Casa Ferrer, was founded in 1875 and is an unruly treasure trove of photos of great musicians and old instruments.
We then stopped off at Casa de Vinos. It was lunchtime so we didn’t experience the evening buzz you get at places like this. All the same it was a pleasant spot to see the world go by – a combination of students, smartly-dressed workers, tourists and locals exchanging kisses and gossip.
The bar is cute and dark with an array of pictures on its walls. A small kitchen is surrounded by shelves packed with various wines and sherries, plus boards displaying what’s on offer. We ordered a glass of Albariño Martín Códax, a wine from Galicia.
The great thing about bars like this is that owners love what they sell, seek our decent stuff and don’t charge the earth for it. This bar has loads of wines that can be ordered by the glass, perfect if you just want a glass or two. Our second (free) tapa was a delicious anchoas con queso y pimientos (anchovies with cheese and peppers).
The menu is varied with small portions costing between €3.50 to €6 and a ración portion €6 to €10. We ordered a small plate of chorizo and queso cabra con cebolla confitada (described as goat cheese with onions poached in Pedro Ximenez). Other interesting dishes include (and as presented on the menu): Carrilleras confitadas (pork’s jaw confit); Mollejas de pato con salsa naranja (duck’s gizzard in orange sauce) and Cogolios de luchuga dos aliños (er…lettuce).
There are only a few outdoor tables so get there ‘early’ if you’re visiting in the day – like 1.30pm. In summer the inside will be a welcome place to cool down, especially after several hours in the Alhambra Palace up the hill.
If we visit at night we’ll report back, but the friendly service, good food and music – and that massive choice of wines – will no doubt be the same. Highly recommended.
Casa de Vinos La Brujidera – Monjas del Carmen 2, Granada, Spain
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© con jamón spain
con jamón spain 
This sounds like my idea of heaven. I shall sniff it out next time we are in Granada, thanks for the tip-off. I’m now wondering how many years of my life I’ve spent in wine bars and pubs – far too many is the answer!
Posted by Lottie Nevin | June 4, 2014, 8:21 amIf in doubt, stay there for several years to beat our total…
Posted by con jamón spain | June 4, 2014, 8:45 pmmy kind of place!!
Posted by tobyo | June 4, 2014, 12:31 amIf you read our post from June 2013 – ‘London Calling’ – you’ll see a similar-ish bar, Gordon’s. It’s where we first met in a drunken fug.
Posted by con jamón spain | June 4, 2014, 8:47 pmOoooooh! There’s a place just like that about ten minutes from my house. Trouble is, the owner, delightful though he is, keeps odd hours, so you never know when the bar is going to be open. BUT, as it turns out, last weekend one of my best local friends moved into a flat in the same street, and now it’s her job now to monitor the timetable. Now, if that wasn’t a strategic move…!
Posted by ladyofthecakes | June 3, 2014, 9:42 pmSurely: ‘her job to stay there forcing it to stay open all hours’? Does it sell cake though?
Posted by con jamón spain | June 3, 2014, 9:48 pm…or at least wedge her foot into the door until I get there 😉
No cake. There’s cheese, though.
Posted by ladyofthecakes | June 3, 2014, 9:49 pmDuck gizzard! On the agenda for next time.
Posted by Charlotte | June 3, 2014, 9:34 pmA must-eat. We were full after two tapas and two (modest) dishes. Although we could have tried the lettuce.
Posted by con jamón spain | June 3, 2014, 9:47 pmKind friends arrived on our doorstep on Friday with a bottle of Rioja in each hand because they assumed we were missing Orgiva. No gizzards or jowls; though we ate home grown lettuce.
Posted by Charlotte | June 3, 2014, 9:56 pmSounds lovely…
Posted by con jamón spain | June 3, 2014, 9:58 pmWow, it’s so cheap! Sounds like a great place!
Posted by Expat Eye | June 3, 2014, 9:32 pmThe wine mentioned – which was delicious by the way – was only 20c more expensive than house wine in some other bars elsewhere in Spain, and this is a major city.
Posted by con jamón spain | June 3, 2014, 9:46 pmI paid €4 for a glass of shite in Daugav-bloody-pils of all places!
Posted by Expat Eye | June 3, 2014, 9:49 pm