Last night I dreamt I went to Jaipur again. This time though, not the Indian restaurant in Dublin, rather a stumbled-upon curry house in a quiet street in Nerja, an hour’s drive from Órgiva on the coast towards Málaga.
This post isn’t about Nerja, although on first impressions it’s a nice place. There’s a buzz about it, the town’s busy and the beaches good. The sun shone on white-haired British expats who sat outside the bars; men in red trousers were spotted and there was even one of those tourist ‘trains’ with rubber tyres that trundled up and down. The Spanish barman spoke to us in English (this never happens in Órgiva, apart from Luisa at El Molino).
Órgiva, bless its cotton socks, has shoe shops and hairdressers – while Nerja has a Lacoste. On the other hand, it apparently has at least three tattoo parlours for those seeking a Guns n’ Roses design on their upper arm – or one of those silly lizards on the shoulder.
By not having a restaurant curry for several months, we’ve realised that part of our souls have departed. We actually dream about dhansak, dhal and channa marsala and no amount of home-cooking or foreign muck can take away the pleasure of eating a portion of paneer pakora followed by a fiery prawn dish or tandoori chicken.
Clearly no experts on the curry houses of Nerja, we think we ‘chose’ a good one. We had the usual conversation – try this? that? – but settled on what we always have: two mains, two vegetable side dishes and rice. There was nothing to fault about the Chicken Dhansak, Tikka Marsala (both around €10), sag bhaji (€5) and dhal (€6.50). Even the poppodums with mint sauce and pickled onion were good.
The traditional accompanying drink – a glass of rosé – suited the food and the waiter threw in a complimentary caramelo, half a litre of the stuff, it seemed.
In our greedy rush to eat the food, we forgot to take pictures apart from the box the bill came in. But photographs of food usually look rubbish anyway – especially curry, which can look like vomit in a silver bowl.
It was a rare treat, but Jairpur is thoroughly recommended. The staff – who speak Spanish, German and English (luckily for us) are fabulous – and it has clean loos. We’ve tried the curry house in Almuñécar up the coast and prefer this.
Jaipur: Calle Los Huertos 48, Nerja (open Monday and Tuesday, 6.30pm to midnight: Wednesday to Sunday, 1pm to 3.30pm and 6.30pm to midnight). Google map.
© con jamón spain