Let’s get one thing straight. There’s tapa and there’s tapa. Here in Órgiva it’s of the (free) non-fussy kind. Go to other parts of Spain – like Valencia, Barcelona or San Sebastián– and it can be an art-form, although you pay for it.
In fact, the relative of the tapa in northern Spain is pincho – pintxo in Basque – where portions, normally on bread, are skewered with a toothpick or similar – pincho is Spanish for ‘spike’. (Here’s our post about a visit to San Sebastián.)
Here, if you order wine or beer, you’ll get a tapa which can be either hot or cold. It’s rare to get anything poor and it should be different with each drink. Just don’t expect glazed asparagus with a quail egg drizzled with balsamic vinegar on top.
Here are our favourite places (see map below for locations):
1. Las Cuatro Esquinas
On a corner of a backstreet crossroad (hence the name) just up from the church, this serves the tastiest tapas. Nothing fancy – a plate of jamón, fried fish and aubergine – but it’s always freshly prepared and perfect. A (small and dark) local bar for local people. Closed evenings.
2. Camping Órgiva
South out of town, Camping Órgiva is, on first impression, a slightly odd place to eat. but it always serves decent fish and seafood. You might get clams in garlic and butter or tiny fried whitebait. It’s on a busy main road but has great views of the Sierra de Lújar.
3. Café Bar Sástago
We recommended this place for coffee too. It’s a lovely location on the main plaza and popular with expats (not that that’s a good thing necessarily). The cous-cous and green pepper is delicious and the paella is pretty tasty too.
4. El Viejo Molino
‘Molinos’ is an enjoyable spot to enjoy a drink and something to eat – especially in the warmer months. The tapa here is generally good although can sometimes be hit-and miss. Pork and beef stews are popular and they can surprise with, say, razor clams.
5. Casa Santiago
If there’s going to be a vehicle pile-up at the traffic lights, you’d get a good view of it at this bar opposite Órgiva’s church. Fumes aside, this is a good bar offering decent tapas including tortilla, russian salad and pork grilled with olive oil and garlic on bread.
© con jamón spain